Hair: Paul Chambers, Tifany Constantine Makeup: Krystyn Johnson Photo: Jean Sweet
PREP and CUT
Step 1. Blow-dry natural texture with large round brush.
Step 2. Smooth the hair in sections. Shown: 5/8" Artizen Midi Flat Iron.
Step 3. Create a parting from the right and left temple to the center of the occipital area. Starting with a vertical section in the center/back, comb the hair from the occipital part line down to the nape. Choose a point in the middle of the hair shaft to establish a weight line at the occipital. Cut the section, elevating the hair as shown. Cut from the middle of the shaft to the ends of the hair.
Step 4. Following the guide, cut the entire back section in the same manner. Once you reach the side of the head, lightly over-direct the hair toward the previous guideline, using the same 45o angle as the first section, causing round layers to maintain length with a soft weight at the top of the angle.
Step 5. In preparation for cutting the shape in the crown area, use the top of the hair from the middle vertical occipital section as a guide and comb the hair in a vertical position, slanted up toward the top of the crown.
Step 6. Hold the vertical section of hair at the middle of the crown and reverse the 45o scissor angle toward the top of the head. Cut the hair from the occipital guide to a longer length toward the top.
Step 7. Section the hair at the parietal ridge line as shown. Using a slight overdirection, comb the hair to the guide at the top of the crown area and cut in a straight horizontal line.
Step 8. Take the top panel of the hair, overdirect the section toward the front and cut the hair.
COLOR and STYLING
Step 9. After cutting the hair in the same manner on both sides using steps 1-9, finish the cut with texturizing techniques where needed to remove any excess bulk.
Step 10. Apply base color from scalp to ends. Formula: 1½ 4RO (red-orange) and ½ part 4G (gold) + 25-volume developer.
Step 11. After processing the base color for 10 minutes, apply a cream-based lightener + 10-volume cream developer from mid-shafts to ends on select strands to create highlights. Process for an additional 20 minutes, rinse, acidify, and condition the hair.
Step 12. Blow-dry the hair and use a flat iron, section by section, to smooth the hair. Shown: Artizen 5/8" Midi Flat Iron.