Short CUT COLOR Tyler Johnston
Hair: Tyler Johnston, Duffy Color: Tracy Hayes Makeup: Maria Olsson Photo: Simon Emmet Products: Schwarzkopf Professional
1. Begin by taking a low side parting and sectioning the head horizontally from behind the ear. Comb down this section and cut against the skin, taking an angle between the base of the nose and the nape. Working up the head, elevate each section out and cut at an angle of 45° to ensure an even graduation.
2-5. Now begin on the back section taking your guide from the previously cut sections behind the ear. Once again elevate each section as you go to ensure an even graduation. Finish this section when you reach the centre back nape.
6-8. Repeat previous steps on the back section working from behind the ear and around the head shape, cross over into previously worked sections to ensure you retain an even balance in shape and weight.
9. Finally comb down the back section onto the hairline and cut into the outline using the point of the scissors. Then cross check to remove excess weight.
10-11. Our model's natural hair colour is base 6 Dark Blonde with tone 7 Copper. To begin, section away the disconnected lengths and working randomly through the hair, take thick chunky sections. Place each section in foil and bleach using our first colour. Finally all the disconnected lengths are bleached.
12. Continue by sectioning the hair from the temples down to the occipital bone, this sectioning technique will give a wide outline shape. This is then tinted with our second colour. Place foil over the previously tinted section to prevent colour from bleeding.
13. The third colour is applied using a basic root application technique. Carefully work around the foiled sections and lastly apply this colour to the mid lengths and ends of the hair. Leave the colour to develop according to manufacturer's shade guide instructions. Shampoo and condition the hair using Bonacure Color Save Shampoo and Bonacure Color Save Treatment. Gently dry the hair in preparation for the second application.
14. Follow the pre-bleached chunky sections and using the four colours, apply the tint randomly using a combination of two or three colours. The goal is to achieve a washed out mottled effect, not a uniform finish. Leave the colour to develop according to manufacturer's shade guide instructions.
Second part of colour technique
First Colour:
Igora Royal Colorist's Color Creme: 9,5-1 Platinum
Blonde Cendre, Igora Royal Colorist's Color & Care Developer 3% / 10 Volume
Second Colour:
Igora Royal Colorist's Color Creme: 9,5-19 Platinum Blonde Cendre Violet (1/2), 9,5-49 Platinum Blonde
Beige Violet (1/2), Igora Royal Colorist's Color & Care Developer 3% / 10 Volume
Third Colour:
Igora Royal Colorist's Color Creme: 9,5-49 Platinum
Blonde Beige Violet, Igora Colorist's Color & Care Developer 3% / 10 Volume
Fourth Colour:
Igora Royal Colorist's Color Creme: 9,5-0 Platinum
Blonde, 8-77 Light Blonde Copper Extra (1/3 of quantity used with 9,5-0 Platinum Blonde), 9-998 Extra Light
Blonde Intensive Violet, (1/8 of quantity used with 9,5-0 Platinum Blonde), Igora Royal Colorist's Color & Care Developer 3% / 10 Volume