Hair: Tyler Johnston, Duffy Color: Tracy Hayes Makeup: Maria Olsson Photo: Simon Emmet Products: Schwarzkopf Professional
1-2. Begin by taking a curved horizontal section from ear to ear just above the occipital bone. Start cutting by lifting a vertical section out from the centre back, each section is cut using the previous section as a guide. Always remember to over direct each section working towards the ear.
3. Repeat the same sectioning and cutting procedure on the opposite side. Next comb down the back section and refine the edges using the point of your scissors.
4-5. Next take a panel section from the temples through to the back, leaving out the fringe section. Pull each vertical section out at 90° to the head and cut from the outside in, overdirecting towards the centre back. Now work around the head using the same cutting technique. Once complete perform visual checks and balances and refine the shape using the point of the scissors.
6-7. The fringe section is now cut using a slicing technique. Hold out sections of hair using a gentle tension and run your scissors down the lengths. Vary length and weight of each sliced section and distribute over the shape to create an overhang. Finally work through the haircut, performing visual checks and balances and the refined edges. Our model's natural hair colour is a base 3-0 Dark Brown. Firstly, apply Igora Skin Protection Cream to prevent staining around the hairline.
8-9. The hair is sectioned in order to work with the different lengths of the haircut. The idea is to have two bleached sections through the side area and a bleached veil on the longest lengths through the top. Finally a circular area is sectioned away on the crown which will be kept dark so that the colour will look diffused.
10-14. Apply the first colour from roots to ends. Cover the entire back section which represents the shortest part of the haircut. Continue with the second colour working up the head until you reach the sectioned panel reserved for bleaching. Apply the third colour using foils, taking fine slices to ensure you achieve an even lift throughout the length of hair. Repeat the same technique on the opposite side. Continue with the second colour working up towards the veil.
15-18. Apply the third colour using foils, taking fine slices to ensure you achieve an even lift through out the length of hair. Repeat the same technique on the opposite side. This will then complete the veil section. Finally, apply the first colour on the crown area. The colours are then left to develop according to the manufacturer's shade guide instructions. The hair is now shampooed and conditioned using BC Bonacure Color Save Shampoo and BC Bonacure Color Save Treatment, and then blow dried straight. Working on the previously bleached sections, take fine sections; apply the fourth colour to the root area, the fifth colour to the mid lengths and the sixth colour to the ends. Randomly apply the fourth colour on a complete length of hair. The idea behind this is to give more intensity at the roots, which gradually fades out through the ends. Work with this technique throughout the bleached sections. The colour is then left to develop according to the manufacturer's shade guide instructions.
19. Finished Look.
Igora Skin Protection Cream
Igora Highlighting Foils
Igora Royal Colorist's Color Creme: 1-9 Black Violet, Igora
Royal Colorist's Color & Care Developer 6% / 20 Volume
Igora Royal Colorist's Color Creme: 5-99 Light Brown Violet Extra, 9-998 Extra Light Blonde Intensive Violet Red (1/4), Igora Royal Colorist's Color & Care Developer 9% / 30 Volume
Igora Vario Blond Plus Powder Bleach, Igora Royal
Colorist's Color & Care Developer: 6% / 20 Volume for root area, 9% / 30 Volume for mid lengths and ends
Action Paint : Violet Crush
Action Paint : Violet Crush 3/4, Mixtone Pastel 1/4.
Action Paint : Violet Crush 1/2, Ruby Craze 1/2, Mixtone Pastel 1/2.