Hair: Allen Ruiz, Tristin Morrison, Kurt Kueffner Color: Ian Black, Lupe Voss Makeup: Janell Greason, Ruby Miles A perfect, straight-hair cut is all in the precision of the sections and their angle - get it right and make sure the fringe mirrors that section angle.
1. Take a half-moon section that begins at the front hairline and extends 2 inches from hairline. If heavier fringe is desired, extend section farther back. Create next section along parietal ridge, extending past the point of distribution, ending at opposite side. This should resemble horseshoe-shape.
2. Take a vertical section that divides the back in two. Take a diagonal section from center back to bottom of ear. To establish length, point-cut. Cutting angle should mirror the section angle.
3. As you continue working up head, sections become more horizontal and are slightly elevated. Repeat on opposite side. Completed section.
4. Take a diagonal section from center back that extends through to the front hairline.
Point-cut a line that becomes shorter toward the front. Use zero degree elevation and no tension to ensure a heavier line.
5. Continue taking parallel sections until the side is completed.
6. Release horseshoe section. Find natural parting. Take vertical section and point-cut. Use longest lengths from previously cut section to establish guideline.
Repeat on opposite side.
7. Continue working in vertical sections, slightly overdirecting back. Use previously cut hair as guide.
8. Release half-moon section. Take smaller subsections that mirror crescent shape of section. Point-cut curved fringe. Fringe should mirror section angle. Comb hair forward from point of distribution. Personalize by slicing a rounded line to desired length.
9. Create a 11/2 inch cross-shape section, starting at hairline below ear, working diagonally across head, to 11/2 inch behind recession area.
10. Apply Blackberry to triangular section at nape.
11. Apply Blackberry through section above the ear, from new growth to the ends. Stop application at bottom of recession. Apply Blackberry through same section on opposite side. Wrap section in foil.
12. Starting to work through cross section, apply Blue Black from new growth to ends. Continue to work through lower section of cross shape, continue to apply Blue Black through entire section. Wrap in foil.
13. Continuing through upper-cross section, apply Blue Black.
14. Apply Bold mahogany + 20 Volume through new growth of remaining hair. Apply Bold mahogany + 30 Volume through mid-lengths and ends of remaining hair.
15. Apply Sheer Silver mist.