Kelly Osbourne and Lady Gaga have been wearing a bona fide icecream palette for several seasons, but it wasn’t until the BAFTA 2013 red carpet event when January Jones (nee 1978) enchanted onlookers with ribbons of carnation pink running through her wavy bob, and Helen Mirren (nee 1945) created a photo frenzy with her solid medley of rose and violet strands, that pastels changed from being an avant-garde expression to a mainstream trend.
|NAHA 2013 Finalists took full advantage of the pastel trend.
(Shown: Sal Misseri, NAHA 2013 Finalist, Hairstylist of the Year)
Photographer: Babak; Hairstylist and Colorist: Sal Misseri
While pastels can be quite dramatic, choosing diluted shades and using delicate application techniques can thrill classic clients who want to flirt with fashion colors, while staying true to their beauty personalities.
“Like training wheels for timid color clients, muted pastel shades can fit the bill for those who are looking for more subtle ways to be fashionable and on trend,” says indie artist Sherri Jessee.
“For clients who prefer classic haircuts, these softer shades can also make everything from traditional bobs to long layers new again.
Examples: Splashes of pastel green, pink or lavender are perfect accents for summer blondes. Slightly stronger shades grant brunettes and redheads intriguing color statements that can easily be made deeper and richer for fall.”
|Creating a multi-tonal blonde will enhance your pastel designs.
Courtesy of Scruples
Polished Pink Strands
Create the pastel shades of your clients’ dreams in as little as 15 minutes.
Scruples URBAN SHOCK Color Craze, which has a direct-dye system with a conditioning base, includes seven intense colors: Red, Blue, Purple, Pink, Orange, Green, and Yellow.
All colors can be diluted with Scruples Pearlscriptives ER (Emergency Repair Conditioner) to create beautiful pastels.
This method offers complete artistic freedom when creating ombré, tie-dyed and tipping techniques, by using one or more colors in various stages of dilution.
Starting on light-blonde hair, find the natural top part.
Create seven small triangle sections—four on the heavy side and three on the lighter side of the part (shown).
Apply Scruples URBAN SHOCK Color Craze Pastel Pink within the triangles, using foils and backto- back slices.
Process, rinse and dry.
|Photographer: Joseph Cartright; Hairstylist and Colorist: Todd Kane, Matrix Artistic Educator; Makeup Artist: Danielle Donahue; Fashion Stylist: Jersey|
Matrix Artistic Educator Todd Kane is a NAHA Newcomer finalist, thanks in part to this fabulous image, which was done using Matrix Color Sync demi-permanent color.
- 1 oz. 10P (Extra Blonde Light Pearl), 3 drops Red Booster + 10-volume developer
- 1 oz. SPN (Sheer Pastel Neutral) + 10-volume developer
- 1/2 oz. 6M (Mocha) + ½ oz. 8A (Ash) + 10-volume developer
Pre-lighten hair to pale yellow from roots to tips in areas where pastel accents will be placed.
Rinse thoroughly with cool water and towel-dry the hair.
Divide the pre-lightened section into three parts.
Using foiled slices, apply Matrix Color Sync Accent formulas.
|Mystic Mint by Sherri Jessee for Pravana
Photographer: Julia Kuzmenko; Hairstylist and Makeup Artist: Sherri Jessee, Pravana Guest Artist; Sponsor: Pravana
Formula: Mystic Mint Blonde
With only two rows of slices encircling the head, this quick color placement provides splashes of mint on a pale-blonde canvas, which can appear subtle to slightly more intense, depending on how you style the hair.
Pre-lighten hair to level 10 from root to tip, either all over or where pastels will be applied.
Create two circular rows, starting 1” from the front hairline, moving back and around the top of the occipital and up the other side. Rows should be about 1” apart.
Taking very fine slices, apply Pravana Mystic Mint ChromaSilk Pastels, leaving a 1” margin in-between foiled sections (shown).
Gently feather the color, starting 1” from the hairline down to the ends.
Process for 20 minutes and shampoo each foil separately to avoid unwanted color transference.
|Courtesy of arteasecolors|
Just a Heartbeat Away
There’s a perfect pastel for everyone, even your most conservative client.
Do you have clients who love pastels, but still want a believable haircolor? Using a technique called “Heartbeat,” arteasecolors has just introduced one of the most sophisticated pastel applications—ever.
“For the model that accompanies this article, violets were combined with cool golden blonde hues, which kept them in the same family,” explains Gerd Hoher, Master Colorist and President of arteasecolors. “We also made sure that none of the colors were too far apart in terms of levels.
“As long as you remain true to these guidelines, you can actually do this type of application on any hair color or level. The results will give your conservative or colorshy clients exquisite color designs that are understated, yet is still very rich and eye-catching.”
|Courtesy of Di Biase Hair USA|
Pastel Hair Extensions
Create the pastel shades of your clients’ dreams in as little as 15 minutes.
“Pastels are so soft and feminine, that clients of all ages are welcoming the opportunity to wear fashion statements that go beautifully with summer clothing and makeup,” says Vikki Parman, CEO and Master Educator for Di Biase Hair USA. “Using your color wheel, level 10 extensions and pure pigments, you can create everything from soft apricot and pale yellow, to sky blue, mint green and all other pastel colorations.
“I start with level 10 extension strands [off head],” Parman relates. “For Di Biase extensions, I use either #1001 or #102. I then create the pastel formula by adding drops of Scruples Urban Shock colors to conditioner. When I achieve the targeted formula, I place the extensions on a sheet of wax paper; apply the formula; and process under a heat lamp for 15 to 20 minutes or without heat for 45 minutes. The color results remain true-to-shade and on-tone for three to four weeks.”
|Photography: Bugg Photography;
Hairstylists and Colorists: Organic Salon Systems Artistic Team and Verde Salon, AZ;
Makeup Artist: Jennifer Andrews
Deeper, Richer Pastels
Deep pastels resonate with rich brunettes.
Haircolor Brand: Organic Color Systems by Organic Salon Systems
Natural level: 6
Pre-treat: Malibu C Crystal Gel
Highlights: 1 scoop Blue Naturlite Lightening Powder, 2 pumps Violet Intensifier + 2 scoops 10-volume OCS Cream Developer.
Base to Ends: 1 oz. 5MH (Light Mahogany Brown with violet undertones), 5 pumps of Violet Intensifier + 1 oz. 30-volume Hairmonics
Toner: 1 oz. 7MH (Medium Mahogany Blonde), 3 pumps of Violet Intensifier + 1 oz. 10-volume Hairmonics Developer.
Taking back-to-back foiled slices across the top of the head, apply Highlight formula. While processing, apply Base formula to remaining hair. Process until Base color is developed and foiled highlights are yellow (no gold present). Rinse base color, then remove one foil at a time and rinse. Lightly cleanse and moisturize, towel dry and apply Toner to the entire head.
|Courtesy of Keratin Complex; Colorist: Deborah Gavin, International Artistic Director for Keratin Complex Color Therapy|
Whisper, Speak or Scream
By following a few simple guidelines, every client can be pastel pretty. DEBORAH GAVIN, INTERNATIONAL ARTISTIC DIRECTOR FOR KERATIN COMPLEX COLOR THERAPY
Keratin Complex Color Therapy has just launched its Hologram collection, which features a bevy of muted pastels to vibrant shades and designs.
When designing pastel haircolors—from formulations to placements—remember that most clients have a hard time articulating their desires.
To create the right formulas and results, it’s important to fi rst ask whether they want their blue, apricot or lavender to whisper, speak or scream. (These are good metaphors to use for all color consultations.) Their response will let you know whether you should mutedown or pump-up the targeted shades, as well as the most pleasing way to apply and place the colors.
For those who want a whisper of color, for instance, I would dilute the pastel and, staying way from the part line, apply micro-slices of color, angling my brush and tilting and lifting it in various ways as I paint down to the ends.”
PASTEL FORMULATION TIPS
“When creating a pastel from scratch, you not only need to follow the color wheel, but also imagine that you’re a painter,” Gavin continues.
“If you want to add a pale rose pastel to your canvas, for instance, you would use a combination of white and red-violet paints. For haircolor, which shades in your line mimics these hues? For me, it would be Keratin Complex KeraHold 10.28/10VP (Ultra-Light Violet Pearl Blonde) and 6.62/6RV (Dark Red Violet Blonde).
I would mix the colors in a 9:1 ratio [one part Dark Red Violet Blonde] with an equal amount of 10-volume developer and apply to level 10 hair.”
|Deborah Gavin, International Artistic Director for Keratin Complex Color Therapy, takes a delicate touch with pastels for Hologram, the company’s newest and most breathtaking collection to date. A fascinating interview with Gavin and complete formulas for all Hologram, images are on our website! Hot.HairsHow.us.
Courtesy of Keratin Complex; Artist: Deborah Gavin, International Artistic Director for Keratin Complex Color Therapy