Courtesy of Kevin Tachman
During any period of time, the first expression of youthful rebellion through personal style almost always begins with the hair. The raw, spiky, wildly cut, do-it-yourself hair associated with "punk" style played an especially integral part in defining the movement's style as it emerged in the 1970's, which is also when renowned hairstylist and Redken Creative Consultant Guido was just starting his career.
Coming to age in the era of punk in London in the 1970's, Guido says it was a very important influence for him and like many legendary fashion designers, he's since referenced the visual message of anarchy, chaos and disregard that is everything punk in some way in almost every step of his career.
At New York City's recent 2013 Costume Institute Benefit at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, the punk theme, PUNK: Chaos to Couture, was in full force. Guido conceptualized the hairstyles for the 50 punks (25 male and 25 female models) who lined the Met's grand staircase as guests entered the swanky gala.
"The look on the models at the Gala was 100% punk, but not overly retrospective nor a pastiche of punk. It's a more modern interpretation. I wanted to show how the energy and feeling of punk begins to develop, and so this is how I envision a young girl might start expressing her rebellious side, with a punk haircut she did herself," says Guido.
The 25 female models all flaunted wigs colored platinum blonde, red or black. Guido then hand-cut and styled each wig to each model, creating 25 one-of-a-kind looks. He created a spiky, cone-shaped look using Redken rough paste 12 working material and generous amounts of Redken's new high-hold control addict 28 high control hairspray. Next up, two different short, ragged and rebellious ear-length bobs with short bangs: the first was all about huge, horizontal volume and created with hot sets 22 thermal setting mist and control addict 28 hairspray, while the second was less about volume and all about tough texture, styled with plenty of with Redken powder grip 03 mattifying hair powder.
Redken professional color was used to color the wigs. New Redken Flash Lift bleach was used to create the platinum blonde wig, the bright red was created with a double process - first new Redken Flash Lift Bleach and then Redken Shades EQ in shade 06AA, and the inky black was created with Redken Shades EQ in shade 01B.
The 25 male looks were created using the models' natural hair, most of whom had Mohawk-ready hair, and those who did not sported chunky punk-perfect styles which Guido created with rough paste 12. The Mohawks were created using control addict 28, sprayed on layer by layer and focused on the tips, resulting in those razor-sharp finishes.
In addition to his work for the Gala, Guido created an essential part of the looks in the Met's upcoming PUNK: Chaos to Couture exhibition, deconstructing 1,500 wigs to create exaggerated, mask-like versions of punk reality for each of the 110 styles on display.