What's Your Shape?by HAIR'S HOW
Raffel Pages, Raffel Pages Group, Spain
Roberto Mesones, Artistic Director, Passaro Prestige, Spain
Brian Perry, Farouk Stylist, Los Angeles, USA
Lucie Doughty, Paul Mitchell Editorial Director, USA
John Simpson, Goldwell North American Guest Artist, USA
Janell Geason, Makeup Artist, USA
For a Round Face
For the Note
Face shapes can actually morph over time due to a variety of factors including age, weight gain/loss and even the hair style selected.
Brian Perry: For a round facial shape the opportunities are endless. Since an oval shape face has equal dimensions, hair may be wo on or off the face with countless variations in between.
Roberto Mesones: For round faces, we should add volume in top areas to enlarge them visually. For that type of face, open lateral areas and short cuts evoke the sensation of chic.
Raffel Pages: Make an updo, placing all the hair above the head. It is possible to let some locks cover the ears and cheeks; yet, you could also make an asymmetrical ponytail or bun in the top area leaving the ears non-covered. If you’d like to make a short cut, you should try to smooth the hair and remove the excess volume. Another important thing is that round-faced people shouldn’t use straight fringes, as this would make the face look smaller and more round. Comb the fringe to one side. To finish and personalize the style, the best option is to loosen a few locks in the frontal area.
John Simpson: Try the classic inverted bob, severe angles and face framing. A fringe will dramatically change and create contour on any round surface. In coloring try deeper shadows around the temporal area and placing your lighter accents just behind them to create an elongated effect.
Lucie Doughty: Hair styles with fullness and height at the crown that are longer than chin length will make face shape appear longer. Off-center parts will soften, while center parts will make face appear rounder.
John Simpson: Contour or utilize blusher just under the cheekbone and utilize a highlighter around the brow bone.
John Simpson: As far as necklines for example, if your face shape is round then a v-shaped neckline may draw the eyes downward, lengthening the overall appearance.
For a Rectangularor Oblong Face
Make up is instrumental in correcting facial shapes. Use lighter shades to empha-size areas you want to widen or draw more attention to. Use darker shades to coun-tour and downplay the areas you’d like to diminish.
John Simpson: The elongated face is one of the most rare shapes, though it is not completely uncommon. Long hair with layers is the perfect answer for this shape. A fringe or “bangs” will help to shrink and framing layers will provide the necessary linear lines. If shorter hair is craved, try a “pixie bob” with lots of face framing and softness along the neckline.
Roberto Mesones: For long faces, it will be quite logical to try to find styles that could make the face more round and soften it.
Raffel Pages: What is the most important in that case is to create volume in the lateral areas and avoid too pretentious or too strict styles. Choose soft styles with layers that give movement to the hair. Try to avoid adding volume in the frontal area. A layered fringe combed to one side will also contribute to softening the features.
John Simpson: In color, shadow the 4 coers of the face with a deeper color, while allowing the triangular placement of highlights to fall along the cheek bone to expand into an oval familiarity.
Raffel Pages: As for coloring, the best option is to darken the top part in order to visually shorten the face. Then you should add highlights to the lateral areas, especially at the level of the cheekbones. This will visually extend the middle of the face and make the face more oval.
John Simpson: In makeup contour and deepen the Jaw and temporal coers while expanding the cheek bone. The perfectly defined lips in this shape give a three dimensional effect that draws the eye!
Brian Perry: If you have a long face, you may not want to consider V-neck collars. Doing this will elongate your face even more. Therefore, to shorten face, consider a collar that is closed cut. In addition, long, dangling earings have the same effect of elongating a long face even more. Therefore, choose earings that are more of a post nature or short in length.
For a Triangular Face
For the Note
If you are an inverted trian-gle just reverse the above, no fringe and expand the jaw for a narrow chin!
Raffel Pages: Another name for this is a heart-shaped face. It is a short face, with a wide (rather massive) forehead and wide cheekbones, narrowed (sunken) cheeks and narrow chin. For that type, the best variant is midi length, light, free locks, with some locks falling to the face. You can also make a fringe (combed to one side) – you will look very sexy and attractive.
Brian Perry: For a triangular facial shape, you want to emphasize a heavy bang that widens out the top narrow portion of you face, thus making the facial shape more rounded.
Roberto Mesones: For triangular faces, cuts with volume at the level of the jaw are perfect.
John Simpson: In coloring, add shadow around the entire hair line, while adding light just above at the coers of the recession and at the fringe. In make up contour the jaw with a deeper shade just under the jaw bone and high light the cheekbone. Give special contour to the eyes while utilizing a deeper shade at the high peaks of the hairline then highlighting just below. Plunging neckline and shapeless flimsy tops will only encourage balance! Thick head bands wo above the fringe will look smart while thick, oversized, short ear rings provide extra added contour.
For a Square Face
Raffel Pages: The problems of the square face are the same as those of the round one but the square face has a wide chin which makes it look too square. The best option is hair with movement, with locks to soften the face angles. The hair should cover the frontal area, especially the lateral sides of the face, and to “mask” a part of the cheeks.
Brian Perry: For a square shaped face, you want to minimize the the sharp coers. To do this, you simply obtain a haircut with softness around the fringe area as well as around the jawline. This helps to create a more rounded facial shape.
Lucie Doughty: In styling, height at the crown will elongate your symmetrical shape consider. Short-to-medium length hair off-center parts, especially with wave or roundness around the face.
John Simpson: In coloring deeper framing around the outer coers and give hi light around the cheeck bones. For cut, keep the jaw line area long to soften the natural strength.
Janell Geason: For example, for a square face, my recommendation is to contour the squareness of the jawline and the forehead to give the face a more oval shape.
John Simpson: Round neck lines and long necklaces will provide extra added lengthening. Stay away from no shoulder cuts and short accessories! We want softness and length.