Vivienne's Philosophy with curlby HAIR'S HOW
From the red carpet to the runway it’s all about curls, waves and a bouncy texture. With curly hair I hold to the philosophy of working with the curl, regardless of the texture, it’s all about a great silhouette. I like reflective color and depth so I increase shine and vibrancy in order to prevent hair from looking dry and drab. I also think it’s about a simple shape and working with the curl not against it.
Sarah Jessica Parker Curls
From the editorial pages of magazines many techniques can translate to consumer friendly styles, but I always advise stylists to practice on a mannequin rather than a client when trying something new. It is important to feel confident in order to promote new ways to work with texture. The following are techniques that I use on shoots and within the salon.
For some clients, a wild curls can look sexy and on another client, it’s a frizzy mess. It’s all about the total image. To give clients a choice and versatility is always a plus. To transform frizz to smooth bouncing hair with lots of shine, try the classic the “Wrap Around” using the circumference of the head as a large roller.
When you have a client with wild curls like Sarah Jessica Parker, how do you tame these lovely locks? As we all know smooth blowdrying and flat ironing hair takes its toll on the condition of the hair over a period of time. For clients with Sarah Jessica type hair looking for smoothness with volume, the classic and longer lasting way to smooth the hair with bounce is the “wrap around” technique combined with a thermal setting lotion or lightweight gel. Section off the crown and wrap into a roller, then wrap the rest of the hair section by section around the circumference of the head, this is done with damp hair or wet hair, place under the dryer until bone dry and then brush through, for sexy smooth hair.
For the client with Sarah Jessica type hair who wants to embrace the curl, try a cocktail of light jell or mouse with light leave in conditioner lightly work through the hair and separate the hair into curls. When the hair is 80% dry, alternate through the hair with a curling iron leaving a mix of natural curl and smoother curls from the curling iron. Tip the head upside down to loosen the curls and finish with a mist of spray shine.
Pin Curl Set
Another great tip for curly hair is to apply styling product for bounce and shine. First rough dry the hair, and take square sections and “rolly polly” around the fingers and set in barrel curls, (stand up pin curls) pin into base, place client under the dryer for 10 minutes or until dry. Allow the set to cool, unpin the curls and tip the head upside down, shake the head to create a soft tumbled effect.
The good old fashion rag set is a great technique for taking a wild curl and improving the texture. Apply a thermal setting lotion to each section and roll around a rag and tie at the base, place under the dryer for 10 minutes. Allow to cold set and then run your fingers through the hair.
Take a curling iron and work vertically through the head and walk the iron out stretching the curl at the end to create a bounce and soft curl within the interior and soft ends.